It was an early departure from Agra for Khajuraho. Dad and I were both still ill with stomach upsets.
The train journey lasted three hours and it was pretty cramped. We disembarked onto a small coach with little overhead storage – there were only five spare seats and some members of our group needed two seats. It was crammed as our cases had been taken to the station the night before, so we had a lot of hand luggage. Once we were moving Lianne (our guide) confessed that despite our cases being taken to the station the night before only four had been on the train as it was so busy (it was Diwali). She would not say whose they were and could not guarantee that the rest would actually arrive until the next day (and given that in 24 hours we were playing to Varanasi there were visions of luggage constantly chasing us).
It was a horrible journey as I was weak and tired. At the lunch stop I ate two dry biscuits, Dad ate nothing (and there were still others in the same position).
We got to the hotel with only 15 minutes before we were going out for the sound and light show at the temples. Luckily I had long trousers and a rugby shirt. I also had mosquito repellent in my hand luggage which I shared around as the venue was teeming. I tucked my trousers in my socks, pulled my hands inside the rugby top and did the neck buttons up.
The lightshow was pretty not what we expected (we were expecting the Cairo show from The Spy Who Loved Me – it was more like some torches being pointed at statues. The hotel was dark and some of rooms were having plumbing issues – mine wasn’t having issues and after finally managing some food I had a rather pleasant evening. It was even better when our luggage turned up – the Indian railway system is amazing and the British should take a long look at how it works so well.

(View from my hotel window)
It was a civilised start time as we did not leave the hotel until 8am and it was not far to the temples that we were going to see, but it took ages as one tour party member wanted to find a cash point. Tour companies often say cash points (ATMs to most countries) are available but it can be tricky dealing with which overseas banks deal with your local bank and the sophisticated fraud systems that banks have that may stop your card being used abroad if you have not told them in advance.

The temples had been lost in the jungle for centuries and when they were found they were quite shocking. They were like the Karma Sutra writ large (and there were plenty of copies of that at the gift shop).

Despite the early hour it was incredibly hot – this was the farthest south we got in India.


We were meant to go to a Jain temple, but it was mysteriously cancelled for yet another shopping trip.
Despite only being in Khudjaraho for 18 hours that was it and we were off to Varanasi (https://wordpress.com/post/fivemilesout.home.blog/1765 ).
Led Zeppelin were yet another of the groups Clive Hook introduced me to and another band that were at the birth of heavy metal – though by no means all their output is in the genre.
Most famous for Stairway To Heaven and, latterly, Immigrant Song my favourite is from Presence. Another epically long track.
Achilles’ Last Stand
Playlist:
- Good Times, Bad Times
- Communication Breakdown
- Whole Lotta Love
- Ramble On
- Immigrant Song
- Stairway To Heaven
- The Battle of Evermore
- The Song Remains the Same
- The Rain Song
- Kashmir
- Achilles’ Last Stand






























